In Like a Lion and Out Like a Lion

New York Times

Today is March 31st although you would never know by looking outside.  My thermometer in the hall says that it's 35 degrees outside.  It may technically be spring but I don't think the northeast and midwest weather gods got the memo.

I have spent the last couple of days trying to keep warm.  To say I am unhappy about this would be a gross understatement.  I thought I was done with heavy jackets and socks.  I must admit, however, that I am holding fast to my "no socks, no heavy coats" declaration of a week or two ago.  This may not have been the smartest proclamation to make but I'm holding fast, hence my problem with staying warm.

So, while I may be pretending it's spring, I have to admit that I was quite pleased to see a recipe for a lamb tagine in yesterday's New York Times.  Tagine sounded good to me.  What was particularly appealing about this recipe was that the author, John Willoughby, suggested not browning the lamb as a first step in the preparation.  This was music to my ears because it's a huge mess to brown meat and I just wasn't feeling it.

Well, as they say, the proof is in the pudding.  This tagine had an amazing depth of flavor.  I just love it when I can use technical phrases like "depth of flavor" and actually mean it.  This recipe had relatively few ingredients for a tagine but cooked all together they produced a surprisingly rich and complex flavor.  There I go spouting technical terms again but it's true.  The flavor was really satisfying.  The end result was a somewhat lighter tasting tagine, which makes this less a winter dish and more a springtime take on the classic.

Dinner warmed me up and I'm feeling more optimistic about spring actually arriving.  Until spring comes, there were two other no brown tagine recipes included in the article.  I think I may have to try one or both if the weather doesn't improve.

To read the entire article and check out the other recipes, go to Deep Flavor, No Browning Required.

Recipe:  Tagine Style Beef Stew
(New York Times 3/30/11)

Ingredients:


2 pounds lamb should, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 small onion, grated (about 1/3 cup)
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/4 cup apricot preserves
1/3 cup red wine vinegar
1 20 ounce can chickpeas,. drained and rinsed
2 cups chicken stock
1/4 cup raisins
1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Cooked couscous, for serving

Directions:


In a Dutch oven, melt the butter over medium-low heat.  Add the lamb, onion, garlic, cinnamon, salt, pepper, coriander, cumin, red pepper flakes, apricot preserves, and vinegar and cook, stirring frequently, until the aroma of the spices is strong, about 5 to 7 minutes.  Do not allow the meat to brown.

Add the chickpeas and stock, and bring just to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer gently until the lamb is very tender, about 1 hour and 15 minutes.

Add the raisins and continue to cook, uncovered, until they are nicely plumped, about 10 minutes more.  Remove from the heat, stir in the parsley and the lemon juice, and serve with couscous.

Lemonlicious

The other day Kate and I were in the car and we made a bet.  It's not important what the bet was about, mostly because I lost, and the payoff was that I would bake Kate the dessert of her choice.  Frankly this wasn't a hardship for me since I bake at least once or twice a week.  I also knew that Kate's not all that creative when it comes to what she would choose.  It's not like she would have chosen Floating Island or Baked Alaska.  Fortunately I was right because I have absolutely no idea how to make a Baked Alaska.

Kate chose lemon squares.  I mean, could she have made a better choice?  I love lemon squares and I have a great recipe.  As far as I'm concerned, lemon squares are the perfect dessert.  They have that delicious shortbread crust and then the gooey, tart lemon filling.  It just doesn't get better than that.

So, this morning I got to work and made the lemon squares.  As always, they came out perfectly.  It took a lot of self control not to eat one for breakfast.  I let them cool completely, and they came out of the pan beautifully.  All in all, I'd say we both won this bet.

Recipe:  Lemon Bars
(Barefoot Contessa Cookbook, 1999)

Ingredients:


For the crust
1/2 pound unsalted butter
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 cups flour
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt

For the filling
6 extra large eggs at room temperature
3 cups granulated sugar
2 tablespoons grated lemon zest (4 to 6 lemons)
1 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 cup flour
Confectioner's sugar for dusting

Directions:


Preheat the oven to 350F.

For the crust, cream the butter and sugar and light in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with paddle attachment.  Combine the flour and salt and, with the mixer on low, add to the butter until just mixed.  Dump the flour onto a well floured board and gather into a ball.  Flatten the dough with floured hands and press it into a 9 by 13 by 2 inch baking pan or sheet.  Chill for 10 minutes.

Bake the crust for 15 to 20 minutes, until very lightly browned.  Let cool on a wire rack.  Leave the oven on.

For the filling, whisk together the eggs, sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice, and flour.  Pour over the baked crust and bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the filling is net.  Let cool to room temperature.

Cut into triangles or squares and dust with confectioner's sugar.

Drowning in Paper

As I am sure you can imagine, I have a lot of recipes.  I have hundreds of cookbooks, not one of which I can live without.  They are on bookshelves all over my house -- upstairs, downstairs, in the kitchen, and in the family room.  My friend Ellen is also a cookbook collector and she has so many that they're even under her bed.  I haven't gone that far yet but I'm close.

I also have drawers stuffed full of recipes I've clipped out of newspapers and magazines.  Then there are the hundreds of recipes friends and strangers have given me over the years.  I am literally drowning in paper.

For a person like me, an admitted "A" type personality, this level of disorganization is unacceptable.  You just never know when you're going to need a recipe.  Just recently a friend and reader, Wende, asked me if I had a recipe for braised radicchio and lo and behold I did.  While it was a miracle the I could actually find said recipe, if I had thrown it out, I could never have helped her out.

My real problem is that I am basically computer illiterate.  Yes, it's true that despite writing this blog everyday on a computer my technological expertise stops there.  I have no idea what I'm doing.  I have about 1,000 folders set up that each have one thing in them.  I have hundreds of pictures in hundreds of separate folders.  It's just a mess and I need help.

Ted is really good on the computer as is Kate.  They have offered to step in and help me out.  I don't think they actually know what they have signed on for.  Ted, being a lawyer, lives his life my complicated filing systems.  You should see the household files upstairs.  The Library of Congress isn't so organized.  Ted has "graciously" offered to clean out my mess of an online filing system and to set up a system that will work for me.  Kate has offered to consult.  I am sure her consultation will be mostly in the form of nasty comments about how bad I am at the computer.

So the point of all this is that I am about to empty my desk drawers of all those clipped recipes and organize them on my computer.  I'm going paperless, or at least I'm going more paperless.  This will be good for all of you because I expect that I will unearth lots of fabulous recipes I have completely forgotten about.  Despite my being somewhat behind the eight ball when it comes or recipe organization, I do have a good memory.  You know how every picture tells a story.  Well, so does every recipe.  Stay tuned...

It's Not Always Easy

(New York Times)

You may think that I am a fount of interesting dinner ideas.  The truth is that, like most of you,  I often struggle with what to make for dinner.  Sometimes I am, quite simply, lacking in inspiration. Those are the nights that I whip up a quick bowl of pasta and call it a day.

Other times I force myself to pull out the cookbooks and  make something -- anything -- just to get dinner on the table.  But sometimes, despite my best efforts, dinner is just dinner.  It's not always easy to make something that will please everyone.  And, let's face it, you can only do so much with chicken or beef.

So, it's at those times, when I have no ideas, that I flip through cookbooks and all those thousands of recipes I've clipped out of magazines and newspapers to find something new.  And sometimes I really hit pay dirt.

As I've mentioned in the past, I love Melissa Clark's recipes. They're never difficult to make and always reap big rewards at the dinner table.  This recipe for Potato Leek Gratin is no exception.  Served with  Scallops Provencal, this side dish was the star of the show.  The gratin was rich and creamy and a nice contrast to the simplicity of the fish.  As I said -- big rewards.

There's just one hitch.  At this late date in the season, the leeks will require some time to make sure they're perfectly clean.  Make sure that you really rinse them well or you'll end up with grit in your gratin.  So, take your time and clean the leeks well. Watching the dirt rinse off is somehow very satisfying.  Watching all that grit go down the drain is very calming and may offer you some inspiration for tomorrow night's dinner.

Recipe:  Potato Leek Gratin
(Melissa Clark, New York Times, March 16, 2011)

Ingredients:


2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 large leeks, trimmed and halved lengthwise
1 1/2 pounds peeled Yukon Gold potatoes
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 thyme sprigs
1 cup heavy cream
1 fat garlic clove, finely chopped
1 bay leaf
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
3/4 cup Gruyere cheese, grated

Directions:


Heat the oven to 350F and butter a 2-quart gratin dish.  Wash the leeks to remove any grit and slice thinly crosswise.

Using a mandoline or a sharp knife, slice the potatoes into rounds 1/8-inch thick.  Toss with 3/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon  pepper.  Layer the rounds in the gratin dish.

Melt the 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet oven medium heat.  Add leeks, remaining salt and pepper, and thyme.  Cook, stirring, until the leeks are tender and golden, 5 to 7 minutes.  Discard thyme and scatter the leeks over the potatoes.

Add the cream, garlic and bay leaf to the skillet, scraping up browned bits of leeks from the bottom of the pan.  Simmer gently for 5 minutes.  Stir in the nutmeg.

Pour the cream over the leeks and potatoes and top with the Gruyere.  Cover with aluminum foil and transfer to the oven.  Bake for 40 minutes, uncover and bake until the cheese is bubbling and golden, 15 to 20 minutes longer.  Let cool slightly before serving.

If You're Ever in the Neighborhood...

Kate and I spent a scintillating weekend at a tennis tournament in Manasquan, New Jersey.  We were there once before, back in January, and this trip was a big improvement over the last one.  Manasquan is located on the Jersey Shore and when we were there the first time there were piles of snow 10 feet high.  This time it was sunnier and all the snow had melted.  It still wasn't beach weather and we didn't run into Mike the Situation or Snooki.  But the sky was blue and it was beginning to feel like spring, even though it was only in the mid 30's.  Hey, I'll take what I can get.

The tennis tournament went well, but the highlight of the weekend was easily our trip to Bobby's Burger Palace.  BBP is owned by Bobby Flay and, I have to tell you, they make a delicious hamburger.  We went for dinner the last time we were on the "shore" and this time it was just as good.  You know how sometimes a repeat visit isn't quite as good as you remember it?  BBP was just as good as the first time.  I had the classic American hamburger and Kate had the same, only she had hers "crunchified".  I have to say, the addition of potato chips as a topping for the burger was truly inspired and quite tasty.  Let's face it, what isn't better with potato chips?  The sides were good too.   Last time we had both onion rings and sweet potato fries but we decided to show some self control this time.  We had only the onion rings.

I usually don't write about restaurants but BBP is so good, very inexpensive, and a lot of fun.  The seating is at counters and the stools not only have a comfy back but they also have a nice place to put your feet.  It's all very casual, which is the way a burger place should be.

So, if you're ever in the neighborhood, give Bobby's Burger Palace a try.

For more information and locations, go to Bobby's Burger Palace.

Polenta: The Recyclable Food

As I've mentioned in the past, we are not a leftover eating family.  I have about 100 nice little containers, some with lids and some without, for saving leftovers, but no one ever eats them once I stick them in the refrigerator.  I've gotten better at cooking less so we have less go to waste, but it's a process.  I figure that by the time I master cooking for three instead of four, Kate will be off to college and I'll have to start over again.  Maybe at that point Ted and I will just start eating out every night.  It would be so much easier.

Nonetheless, there is one gaping exception to the no one eats leftovers rule.  That would be polenta.  In fact, polenta can be prepared so many different ways that I find myself planning for leftovers when I make it in the first place.  It can be served creamy, fried, and grilled, to name just a few of the many variations on the theme.  It truly is the recyclable food.

I usually start out by making creamy polenta as a side dish for dinner.  Since there are usually only three of us, there's a lot left over.  I then take the leftovers and store them in a Saran lined loaf or 8x8 pan.  Cover the whole thing with more Saran Wrap and stick it in the refrigerator.  Don't worry if you don't use it immediately.  I think it lasts forever.  When you're ready to use it, just slice it up into whatever size pieces you want and either grill it in a grill pan (winter) or on the barbeque (summer).  Or you can fry it up, which is particularly yummy.   Either way, you have a whole different preparation and nobody will refer to polenta in the common refrain "all we ever have is . . . " (around here normally chicken).  Or, if you're feeling particularly feisty, you can serve the polenta with chicken and really mess with their heads.

You're a star and you've done virtually no work the second time around.  You can also use this as a barter for a new pair of shoes, handbag, etc.  Just point out how thrifty you're being.  This hasn't actually worked for me yet, but it may for you.  Even without the new bag, it's worth it.

Recipe:  Basic Polenta


Note:  Feel free to experiment.  Some tasty additions are Parmesan cheese, gorgonzola, and fresh herbs.


Ingredients:


6 cups low sodium chicken stock or water
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 3/4 cups yellow cornmeal
3 tablespoons unsalted butter

In a large, heavy saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a boil.  Add the salt and gradually whisk in the cornmeal.  Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring often, until the mixture thickens and the cornmeal is tender, approximately 10-15 minutes.  Remove from the heat and add the butter, stirring until it is combined well.

Martha Knows Pie

Martha Stewart was on the Today Show today pushing her book New Pies and Tarts.  There was a lot of discussion between her and Matt Lauer about how many cookbooks this one makes -- Martha "thinks" it's 76 (as though she isn't absolutely sure) -- and the fact that this is a somewhat updated take on her original Pies and Tarts cookbook published in 1995.

Now, I think Martha is a very talented person.  She made origami birds for Christmas decorations when she was in jail.  Who can quibble with that?  But her recipes?  I'm not so sure.

Nonetheless, there Martha was chopping and explaining how to make a savory pie on the Today Show.  Ann Curry was assisting.  And, you know what, it looked pretty good, even if it had zucchini in it and I don't like zucchini.  This gave me an idea.  I could substitute in things that I like and make a similar pie to serve as a side dish with dinner.  Just call me Martha!

Time to raid the vegetable drawer in the refrigerator.  Mushrooms, check.  Tomatoes, check.  Basil, check. Kalamata olives, check.  Fresh mozzarella, check.  You can see where I was going with this.

I made Martha's pastry and it came out surprisingly well.  It's pretty foolproof, although I do have to admit that I am Martha-like in my ability to roll out a pie crust.  It's a gift.  What can I say.  But the point here is, besides all my snarkiness, that it's an easy pie crust to make so don't be intimidated.

The end result was quite delicious.  The only things missing were origami birds decorating my dining room.  If you feel inspired to try your hand at origami with Martha, here's a how-to (Martha Stewart Origami Boxes).

Recipe:  Cherry Tomato, Mushroom, & Mozzarella Pie

(Adapted from Martha Stewart)

Ingredients:

For the crust

2 1/4 cups all purpose flour

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1 teaspoon kosher salt

3/4 cup unsalted butter, cold, diced

1 egg yolk for pastry and 1 egg yolk for wash

A little heavy cream or water for egg wash

1/4 cup ice water

For the filling

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 shallot, chopped

1 clove garlic, chopped

1 pint cherry tomatoes, 1/3 of them halved and the rest whole

1/2 cup grated Parmesan

4 ounces fresh mozzarella cut into 1 inch cubes

1/4 cup chopped basil

8 ounces mushrooms, sliced

1/2 cup Kalamata olives, pitted

1/4 cup all purpose flour

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 375F.

Combine the flour, butter, salt, 1 egg yolk, and Parmesan in the bowl of a food processor.  With the motor running, add the ice water through the feed tube until the dough just comes together.  Turn the dough out onto a floured board and form into a disk.  Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

In a large skillet, heat the olive oil and saute the shallot until soft, about 3 minutes.  Add the garlic and saute for 30 seconds.  Add the mushroom and saute until soft, about 6 minutes.  Season with salt and pepper and set aside.

In a large bowl, combine the tomatoes, Parmesan, mozzarella, basil, olives, and flour.  Season with salt and pepper.  Add the mushroom mixture and mix well to combine.

Roll out the pastry dough into a 13 inch circle.  Line a shallow pie dish, leaving overhang.  Pour the tomato mixture into the crust.  Fold the overhang over the filled dish.  Lightly brush with the remaining egg yolk mixed with a touch of heavy cream and refrigerate for 30 minutes.  Bake for 70-80 minutes, until browned and bubbly.  Serve warm.